Where halloween tends
to celebrate horror: ghosts and ghouls and all things spooky, Día de los Muertos is decidedly different in tone, seen as a way to pay homage to lost loved ones. Usually taking place over the first two days of November, but sometimes running for as long as a week depending on where you are, the festival is characterised by an explosion of colour; distinctive makeup, vibrant costumes, singing and dancing and a general celebration of life, even after it’s gone.
There are many theories on where Día de los Muertos originated. Some believe it to be a continuation of European traditions like All Souls’ Day, while others are certain it stems from Aztec traditions of several thousand years ago when the dead weren’t mourned, but rather still seen as members of the community. However it started, it has solidified itself as a key and significant part of
Mexican
culture in the present day, and a prime export from the country, with celebrations being recreated around the world.
It’s one worth celebrating too – raising a toast to loved ones who are no longer with us. And what better way to do so than by honouring the Mexican tradition through food and drink? Santiago Lastra, head chef and co-owner of
KOL
restaurant, and Matthias Ingelmann, head bartender at KOL and KOL Mezcaleria, have come up with some incredible cocktail and snack pairings (also known as antojitos, roughly translated as 'little cravings', these dishes are also on the menu at KOL Mezcaleria) that highlight the complexity of mezcal, and the power of Mexican cuisine.
The pairings
1. Pistachio guacamole x Fig Leaf & Pine French 75
The central thread to Santiago Lastra’s culinary intentions at KOL is to interpret traditional Mexican dishes through a British ingredient-focused lens. This means reimagining many classic recipes, including guacamole. How do you make the infamous dip without avocado? With some serious culinary innovation and a fair amount of pistachio, that’s how – at least according to Lastra. On this pairing, Ingelmann says: “The guacamole is very fresh with the pine oil on top. We use a similar pine oil for the cocktail as well. It’s very easy to drink and is well balanced between richness and freshness which goes well with the guacamole. This will be one of the first snacks you eat, so it’s good to kick things off with an aperitif-style cocktail.”
2. Langoustine ceviche with rhubarb aguachile x La Cigala
Continuing with the British ingredients theme, Langoustine sits front and centre in this ceviche. It makes sense, the crustacean being the jewel in the British seafood crown, and a wonderful alternative to over-fished, often problematically-obtained prawns. “This is a very bright and fruity dish,” says Ingelmann. “The La Cigala has a nice acidity from the hibiscus and verjus, while rhubarb and The Glenmorangie add some fruitiness. The mezcal, meanwhile, adds some minerality and body. The light acidity of the cocktail really compliments the flavours of the dish.”
3. Truffle quesadilla x Sorrel & Hop Sour
Partnering with a farm in Canterbury, KOL have managed to produce their own British-made Oaxacan-style cheese to ensure they don’t lose the specific tang that makes quesadillas so wonderful. It’s a specific flavour profile to pair with, and Ingelmann says this drink helps balance sour with sour. “This dish is a lot about the crispy, gooey texture of the quesadilla,” he says. “The cocktail has a soft, velvety feel with a sour flavour profile. The quesadilla, with the truffle and matcha salsa, is quite rich and nutty, so the cocktail cuts through with some acidity and adds a bright herbaceousness, with the sorrel notes. It really helps balance the dish.”
Split and cut rhubarb in approx 3cm big pieces and mix it with the sugar. Cover and let sit for a few days until all the sugar is soaked up by the liquid. Strain.
Per 100g of cordial, add 0.5g tartaric acid.
For the cocktail
Wine glass, no ice.
Mix ingredients but soda in a bottle or mixing glass and store in the fridge. When chilled pour into a wine glass and top with soda water.
Ratio of 1 part truffle to 4 parts butter (i.e. 20 grams truffle to 80 grams butter)
For the filling
250g Oaxaca cheese (can also use mozzarella with added salt)
50g truffle butter
To finish
20g fresh truffle
Method
For the cabbage puree
Chop the cabbage into small pieces.
Roast the cabbage in a large pan with the oil and caramelise until golden. Stir continuously.
Add the white wine and reduce.
Add the water to cover and simmer for 3 hours.
Once cooked, blend all the ingredients until smooth.
Season with salt.
Pass a fine mesh sieve and refrigerate.
For the quesadillas
Follow instructions on store bought maize in a bowl and work with the hands until homogenic.
Reserve the mix at room temperature with a wet towel on top.
Make 25g balls of the corn masa mix, press with a tortilla press (between 2 plastic sheets or parchment paper) to create a 12cm diameter circle.
Place 20 g of Oaxaca cheese in the middle of the masa circle with 5 g of truffle butter.
Gently fold the masa to create a semicircle pressing the borders with your fingers to create a quesadilla (make sure the masa doesn’t break in the middle).
Deep fry the quesadilla in vegetable oil at 190C until it stops bubbling.
Dry the quesadillas with paper and leave to cool down at room temperature.
To finish
Serve the quesadilla in a plate and spread the cabbage pure on the top.
Finish the quesadilla with truffle slices to cover.
